Agritourism Grows in the Turkish Countryside

Want an off-beat alternative to an Italian countryside vacation? Fathom contributor Erik Trinidad visits Kairos Farmhouse, an organic olive farm turned intimate agritourism retreat in Muğla, Türkiye.

I sat atop a hill, surrounded by rows of grapevines, glass of wine in hand — of course. A slight briny breeze wafted in from the brackish waters of Lake Bafa some kilometers away. The Mediterranean sun prepared its daily descent below the horizon among a display of pink and orange hues.

I was traveling with a small group of friends and colleagues within the Latmos mountain range in the Turkish countryside; we convened for sunset drinks in the afternoon. We were all staying at the Kairos Farmhouse in the province of Muğla in southwestern Türkiye, away from the electric, urban atmosphere of Istanbul, the tour buses of Cappadocia, and the loud thumping of nightlife mecca Bodrum. Under a canopy of olive trees, happy hour was filled with wine, cheese, and olives (obviously), new connections and conversations. Alice Sara Ott's rendition of Debussy's Suite bergamasque played on a portable speaker to underscore the classy, countryside vibe. However, there was something off. The mood was perhaps too relaxed, despite the clinking of glasses to “şerefe” (“cheers” in Turkish).

“Can you play something else?” I suggested, implying we needed to liven things up.

And soon, our hosts started playing the universal crowd-pleaser Dancing Queen. The rhythms of that disco anthem inspired laughter and a little dancing right in the middle of that private Turkish vineyard, as the sun set down the ridges of the surrounding mountains.

Founded by Cem and Zeynep Çelikoğlu, a couple who needed an escape from Istanbul corporate life, the Kairos Farmhouse originally started as a certified organic farm to produce olives and olive oil for Kairos (founded in 2010). Perhaps naming it after the Greek mythological god of opportunity was auspicious; the successful business spun off an all-natural cosmetics brand, Kaibeauty, and a few years later, a farmhouse hospitality venture.

Intended for small groups, Kairos Farmhouse encompasses ten tastefully decorated rooms, an infinity pool, a yoga studio, and a sauna, but the real luxury is the warm and welcoming atmosphere.
“We don't want our guests to feel like they are staying at a hotel. We want them to feel that they are visitors to a farm,” says Çelikoğlu. “Food is very important for us. Our menu changes depending on the season but always includes fresh, good ingredients.”

After sunset, we rode a golf cart to the main house where a delicious farm-to-table feast of local produce and fresh lamb awaited us. It was paired with wines the Çelikoğlus produced themselves, with grapes planted by hand in their vineyard and intended only to enjoy in the company of guests.

“Şerefe!”

Our stay was short, but sweet. It was merely one stop on a weeklong road trip of the Turkish interior from the Turquoise Coast to the famed white terraced thermal pools of Pamukkale, with stops at Carian archaeological sites and other points of interest along the way. Our time at Kairos Farmhouse was a much-needed moment of rest and relaxation: Turkish tea on the terrace, a dip in the pool, a sauna session. We marveled as we strolled around the nearby archaeological site of Hereklia on Lake Bafa, where local fishermen prowled the surface in search of eels, a local delicacy.
As the sun rose above the sacred Latmos mountains the following morning, our hosts extended their hospitality with a proper Turkish breakfast. They filled the table with a spread of sliced sucuk (spiced local sausage), cheeses, farm-fresh vegetables, homemade juices, and freshly baked breads, served with the olives and olive oil that spearheaded the whole farmstay venture in the first place. The Çelikoğlus themselves joined us at the table, and their presence truly made the difference between feeling like a guest in a home, rather than at a hotel — their intention exactly.

Regrettably, we bid them farewell with goodbye salutations of “Teşekkürler” and with wishes for a return visit. And while ABBA didn't play us out on a portable speaker, the Çelikoğlus might have cued up the music if I'd asked them to.

Other Farmstays in Türkiye

Kairos Farmhouse is just one of several places in the Turkish countryside jumping on the agritourism trend, providing a slice of a bucolic, agrarian lifestyle, without the farmhouse labor (just the enjoyment of the fruits of that labor). Other farmstays worth exploring are: the rustic Knidia EcoFarm on the Datça peninsula in Değirmenbükü, and the more contemporary NUUP Hotel and Farm, north of Marmaris.