DAY 3

Check into Encore at Wynn. Décor galore! No surface untouched — not even the vents painted to match the walls in the rooms. Lots of chic Euros and Japanese here. It seems to be the sophisticated, fashionista hotel of choice, despite its remote location on the Strip.

Hit the spa, also OTT but gorgeous. Lockers look like old steamer trunks. Liberal use of dramatically swagged fabrics with lots of bullion fringe. Try the Jacuzzis of different temperatures and the "experience showers."

Tour Neon Museum, a space off the strip with a collection of old signs from hotels and restaurants. Much more organized than the last time I visited ten years ago. Guide is awesome and knowledgeable — talks enough but not too much. Love. (Must book ahead; $15.)

Try to sit through Le Rêve, the in-house Cirque-esque show at Encore. Leave after 30 minutes. Just say no.

Dinner at Sage in City Center. Have chef Richard Camarota's tasting — four very generous portions, including dessert, with choice of beer or wine pairing. I was with a friend; we tried both. Bonus: pistachio hot chocolate ending "amuse."