FILICUDI, THE TINY

We spent one of our best days renting a motorboat in Salina and visiting Filicudi (less than 30 minutes away), one of the tiniest and least inhabited islands. (Alicudi is the even smaller one.)

Filicudi is very chic in the European art world. The Italian artist Maurizio Cattelan apparently has a restaurant there, but we couldn't find it. We made the mistake of booking lunch through our hotel, which involved a taxi ride up into the hills. We should have eaten at one of the cute restaurants in the port.

The best part of Filicudi is not on the island; it's the water and landscape around it: gorgeous grottoes you can motorboat into, the best snorkeling we saw in the islands, lots of pretty fish and coral. Watch out for jellyfish (Italian word: "medusa"). We saw tons and I got stung. It's not a big deal, but it's not fun either.

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