"Hong Hong's back garden," on the backside of Kowloon, is a rustic fishing port where many fine seafood restaurants have an outpost. You can point to any of the tanks to get your lunch freshly prepared while you post-up at a seaside table. (Look out for the Michelin-starred Chuen Kee.) Junk boats are for hire on the water and will take you to sandy enclaves (like Tai Long Wan, a large bay with white sand beaches).