Little Black Book

He Makes the Best Pizza the USA. These Are His Top Spots in Naples

by Anthony Mangieri
dinner Diving into a meal at Da Dora. Photo by Anthony Mangieri.

Anthony Mangieri has once again been named the #1 pizza maker in the United States, an honor he's held since 2022. His Lower East Side pizzeria, Una Pizza Napoletana, announces his style: Neapolitan. Obsessed with making pizza since he was a kid growing up in New Jersey, he meticulously studied the craft and sources the best ingredients he can find (wild oregano from the Amalfi Coast, sea salt from Sicily). He's so obsessed with quality that he makes every single pizza dough himself. And if he's not in the restaurant, the restaurant isn't open. (He did create a line of frozen pies, Genio Della Pizza, a boon for those who can't snag a table.) Anthony returns regularly to Naples, pizza capital of the world, to meet with purveyors and eat. We asked for him to share his favorite spots around town.

Naples and I have been intertwined since I was born. I grew up hearing stories about the city and its countryside and visited with my family, most often with my mom. In my twenties, I started traveling to Naples on my own for extended periods of time and truly fell in love with everything the city had to offer. It’s been a long relationship, and I have grown to enjoy a healthy outlook on all its positives and negatives. In the end, Naples is such a unique place, built on survival and filled with traditions — traditions in food, music, crime, love, art, religion, mentality. If you go, go with an open heart and a sense of humor. She won’t disappoint. Here are my favorite places to caffeinate, eat, snack, see, shop, and stay.

Caffè Caldo Freddo at Bar Mastracchio in Naples.
Caffè Caldo Freddo at Bar Mastracchio. Photo by Anthony Mangieri.

Where to Caffeinate

Bar Carolina
Piazza Carolina, 18
I love this little old school caffe. They are true masters of pulling a super short, strong shot. Ask for your espresso in bicchierino, with or without sugar. This is such an authentic Neapolitan tradition.

Bar Mastracchio
V.cl della Tofa, 4
I visit this tiny shop off Via Toledo multiple times every trip for their house specialty, Caffè Caldo Freddo, which is basically espresso topped with sweetened, creamy frozen coffee. When I brought a friend here years ago he said, “This is incredible. America needs this.”

dinner at Osteria della Mattonella.
Osteria della Mattonella. Photo by Anthony Mangieri.

Where to Eat

Da Dora
Via Ferdinando Palasciano, 30
Simple, family-run spot focused on local fresh seafood. Whenever I go, it’s lively and full of Neapolitans. We always get a few pastas to share, including their namesake pasta, and of course, lots of fish.

Osteria Della Mattonella
Via Giovanni Nicotera, 13
I’ve been eating at Osteria Della Mattonella since I was young visiting Napoli with my mom and dad. My father especially loved this ultra classic osteria with a very small dining room. Order alici fritti, baccalà, and one of the historic dishes.

Taralli from Panificio Coppola Vincenzo
Taralli from Panificio Coppola Vincenzo. Photo by Anthony Mangieri.

Where to Snack

Chalet Chiquitos
Via Mergellina, in front of the 4a funicular
This little waterfront kiosk in Lungomare Mergellina used to be super popular, but sadly the park hasn’t been kept up over the years. I still love to take a passeggiata (long stroll) from Castel dell’ Ovo along the sea and ending here, especially after dinner when you can see Capri and Posillipo lit up. Order macedonia (mixed fruit salad) and enjoy the sea air.

Panificio Coppola Vincenzo
Via Tribunali, 34
Come and get the traditional Neapolitan taralli made with almonds, black pepper, and lard. It’s like a crunchy, crumbly Italian pretzel.

Sfogliatelle Attanasio
Vico Ferrovia, 1
I love everything here, including their signage. Make sure to try both varieties of sfogliatelle, frolla and riccia, especially when they are hot out of the oven.

I Numeraio Shop di Pasquale De Stefano
Pasquale De Stefano at work at I Numeraio Shop. Photo by Anthony Mangieri.

Where to Shop

E. Marinella
Riviera di Chiaia, 287a
I first discovered E. Marinella many years ago, and it’s become a go-to when I want to treat myself to a beautifully made piece of clothing that I know I will have forever. Founded in 1914, the handmade clothier has a strong English style that was very popular in the first half of the 20th century among Neapolitan gentlemen and businessmen. Over the years, I’ve purchased custom made ties (this is what they became famous for), a wind-up wristwatch, handmade caps, and, most recently, a beautiful white dress shirt for my wedding. Everything they sell is of the finest quality, and the shop and experience are from another era. It’s important to support places that uphold quality craftsmanship so they continue to survive and thrive.

I Numeraio Shop di Pasquale De Stefano
Vico Finale, 27-1
Pasquale’s signs are part of Naples street life. You can see them on many fruit and vendor stalls throughout the city, and they’ve recently become popular in restaurants and pizzerias. Visit his one-room studio off a side street in Borgo Sant’Antonio Abate, and most likely you’ll find just Pasquale and his wife in there. You can buy their newer merch, like T-shirts or calendars, but for a truly one-of-a-kind souvenir, he can paint a small custom sign for you right there in his distinctive style.

A custom sign by Pasquale di Stefano
Anthony and Christina hold the sign Pasquale made to commemorate their wedding. Photo by Anthony Mangieri.

London Store
Via Nilo, 33, 80134 Napoli NA
I usually stop at the original store London Store on via Nilo when we're in the historic Sanità neighborhood (they have a handful of locations), where the exposed stone walls and arches are a fun contrast to the art, music, and displays of special edition sneakers, clothes, and more spread across different rooms and levels. The team is friendly and helpful, and the curated assortment mixes familiar American and international brands with small, independent labels. I first stopped in when I spotted their big selection of Vans from the street (my go-to shoe since second grade), and they've been a lifesaver when I inevitably forget to pack enough tees or a jacket. On our last visit, my wife Christina scored a shirt from the cool Neapolitan brand Vienmnsuonno 1926.

 

The view along the Salita del Petraio, Mt. Vesuvius in the distance.
The view along the Salita del Petraio, Mt. Vesuvius in the distance. Photo by Anthony Mangieri.

What to Do

Take the funicular (Funicolare Centrale) just off Via Toledo up to the Vomero neighborhood and walk a few minutes to Castel Sant’Elmo. The castle and neighboring gardens are nice to visit, but the Salita del Petraio walk is the main point. The winding stairs and paths are a great way to get different views of the city from above — the Mediterranean, Mt. Vesuvius, Spaccanapoli, and more. I think it’s a perfect cultural immersion into Naples because in any other city in the world a passageway like this would be filled with tourist shops, but here it’s basically abandoned and graffitied. Do it as soon as you can: Every time I go back, it’s more and more popular. When I would do it 30 years ago, I sometimes felt like I was taking my life in my hands.

No matter what changes in the restaurant scene in Napoli, one thing is guaranteed. Go to any high-quality salumeria and buy a ball of mozzarella di bufala, provala, or fior di latte. Stand on the street, rip it apart with your hands, and eat. This is one of the greatest culinary experiences I have ever had. Just make sure the cheese you purchase is sitting out unrefrigerated: This is a sign that it’s the day’s freshly made mozz. One great shop is Sogni di Latte (Via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 35), which carries a few varieties from local caseifici (cheese makers).

Kayak Napoli
If I visit in the warmer months, I love to go kayaking. It’s an incredible way to see the city from a completely different angle, no experience necessary. Naples from the water shows the coastline to be one of the most beautiful in the world.

Where to Stay

Hotel Royal Continental
My go-to hotel for long and short stays. I’ve stayed in many hotels over the years, from bare bones to the most expensive, and for the money and location I haven’t found any comparisons. It’s quite large and not the most chic or hip, but many rooms are spacious, clean, and well appointed (albeit not the most updated) in a charming, classic Neapolitan style. Some rooms even feature midcentury furniture designed by Gio Ponti. Many rooms have incredible views of the Bay of Naples, some with large balconies. The best part? The Gio Ponti-designed rooftop saltwater swimming pool with views of the sea.

Read More on Fathom

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