I’d Fly to Minneapolis for the Food

Minneapolis has been in the news this year for all the wrong reasons. This rich, diverse city didn’t deserve to be in the crosshairs of U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement, nor its extremely violent tactics. But faced with this crisis, Minneapolitans and their leaders showed the world they are a model of civic unity, neighborly cooperation, and peaceful resistance. When political commentator Sally Kohn visited last fall, she discovered the culinary side of the city.

Let me start with a confession: When I think of foodie destinations in the United States, my mind sticks to the coasts. New York, Philadelphia, Los Angeles. If my thoughts stray inland, it’s usually no further than Chicago. After all, I’m one of those coastal elites who can’t correctly situate most of the midwestern states on a map, let alone detail their travel wonders. So in a sense, this piece is not only a paean to Minneapolis as a travel-worthy food and culture destination but also a mea culpa. Good news is, the people of Minneapolis are famously, inordinately nice and will undoubtedly forgive me for my previous oversight.

Generally speaking, there are three reasons I believe Minneapolis deserves your attention. First, it’s one of the most diverse cities in the country — and particularly in the Midwest — with large Somali, Hmong, Swedish, Ethiopian, and Indian communities, among others. Second, Minneapolis-St. Paul was the home of George Floyd, whose killing at the hands of police in 2020 led to a nationwide racial reckoning. And although many places and so-called leaders have retreated from that reckoning in the wake of recent political tides, the Twin Cities has continued meaningful progress — from police reform to memorializing George Floyd Square. And museums like the Minneapolis Institute of Art not only continue to produce thoughtful cultural projects in the wake of Floyd’s murder and aftermath, but inclusive artistic works more broadly. Third, Minneapolis is super easy to get to. And that’s a real bonus.

But the food, you ask? Here’s where it gets really fun. I traveled to Minneapolis in the fall of 2025 to attend Farm Aid — which, as a side note, anyone and everyone who loves music and loves family farms should try to attend at least once in their lives. And hosted generously by the stunning new Four Seasons Hotel Minneapolis, I extended my trip to try some of the great restaurants I’d heard so much about — the best of which celebrate the community’s rich diversity.

Owamni by “the Sioux Chef” Sean Sherman is a fine dining restaurant unlike any other I’ve ever experienced. I sat down to dinner around the time that some in the United States were prominently attacking diversity, equity, and inclusion — and the first thing our server told the table is that Owanmi only features foods that existed before colonization. We savored yucca fries and hand-harvested wild rice and a perfectly medium rare bison ribeye served with delightful sauces made from indigenous herbs and berries. By its nature Owamni is celebrating tradition — the tradition of indigenous communities and cultures — while simultaneously transmogrifying tradition for modern times and modern palettes. It was a revelation to eat a meal where every bite was as delicious as the politics with which it was served.

Sherman and his team are about to move into a new space at the Guthrie Theater that will double their size and expand their offerings. They're marking the occasion with a name change to Indígena by Owamni. I like how Sherman explains the name: “Indígena is derived from the Spanish word for Indigenous, sharing the Latin root Indigenae, meaning ‘born of the land. While English and Spanish are colonial languages, they are also bridge languages that allow Indigenous communities across Turtle Island to connect, exchange knowledge and share culinary traditions.” It's a reason to go back.

Another highlight was Diane’s Place, by Hmong pastry chef Diane Moua. This was one of the best meals I had all year. Whereas Owamni takes dishes you might be familiar with but tweaks the ingredients — steak, but make it bison! — Diane’s deals in more typical Thai and Lao dishes but just does them better, frankly, than anywhere else I’ve ever eaten, including in Thailand and Laos. I’m still dreaming about the pulled pork. And I never liked papaya salad until I had theirs, which was bright and fresh and not even a little soggy. The bonus is that, because Moua got her start as a pastry chef, Diane’s Place also sells pastries. We ordered a bunch to go and had a delightful breakfast the next morning.

Both Owamni and Diane’s Place are restaurants that would make me go out of my way for a trip to Minneapolis. Throw in a facial and dip in the rooftop pool at Four Seasons, and it’s a vacation — one that celebrates the wonderful diversity of the Twin Cities and hopefully helps spread its mission and message nationwide.