Little Black Book

The Hotelier's Guide to Art and Eating in Valparaíso, Chile

by Vincent Juillerat
Photo courtesy of Hotel Palacio Astoreca.

On a recent visit to Valparaíso, Fathom assistant editor Berit Baugher had the pleasure of meeting Vincent Juillerat, the owner of newly opened Hotel Palacio Astoreca, a former Victorian mansion with impressive design and jaw-dropping views of Chile's most famous seaport. He gave us a list of his favorite places to eat, drink, and enjoy the city's thriving art scene.

Museo de Bellas Artes
Cerro Alegre Palacio Baburizza; +56-32-225-23-32
A beautiful museum located in the former home of a wealthy nitrate tycoon. His collection of late 19th-century European art along with the museums collection of traditional Chilean work is on display. I particularly like a painting of the Pacific by local artist Thomas Somerscales.

Pasta e Vino
Calle Templeman 352; +56-32-249-61-87
A nice restaurant with creative and tasty house-made pastas and an excellent wine list. You feel like you're in a small Italian village. It's very popular, so make reservations ahead of time. 

Bar de Pisco
Almirante Montt 484, Cerro Alegre; +56-32-319-21-61
If you would like to try Pisco, a Chilean speciality, this is your place. It's a small space but their list of Pisco cocktails is huge.

Casa E
Lautaro Rosas 344, Cerro Alegre; +56-32-225-46-24
An excellent gallery and bookshop located on the city's nicest street, which is also the setting for one of the latest books by writer Roberto Ampuero, a native of Valparaíso and the current Chilean ambassador to Mexico.

Parque Cultural de Valparaíso
The city's old jail was recently renovated into a huge cultural center where you can see theatre or art exhibitions.

Bar Ingles
Calle Cochrane 851; +56-32-221-46-25
A local bar and the best place to get a sense of the city's maritime history.

Espiritu Santo
Héctor Calvo 392; +56-32-327-04-43  
One of my favorite restaurants. They have an excellent menu full of locally sourced seafood and seasonal produce.

Restaurante Alegre
Calle Montealegre 149; +56-32-327-77-00
And of course the restaurant at Hotel Palacio Astoreca is a favorite. Our chef Sergio Barroso worked at El Bulli and is extremely imaginative with his dishes. Favorites include the crab cannelloni (corn puree, cilantro pesto, and tomato gelée wrapped in slices of avocado) and the suckling pig, which is cooked for 12 hours and served with brandy shallots and a purée of roasted sweet potatoes.


Hotel Palacio Astoreca
Calle Montealegre 149, Cerro Alegre
Valparaíso, Chile


See the locations in this story. (Google Maps)


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