Fathom Favorites : Rome

1. Chorus


Master mixologist Massimo d'Addezio and chef Andrea Fusco took over a gorgeous, Fascist-era reception hall at the Vatican's Auditorium and have turned into one of the city's best, if not the most stylish, cocktail lounges. High ceilings, original marble, velvet divans, and a glowing bar counter are the perfect backdrop to d'Addezio's clever concoctions.

Via della Conciliazione 4
Rome, 00193

2. Litro


By day, a neighborhood cafe that serves snacks and drinks in the quiet residential district of Monteverde Vecchio. By night, Valeria Sebastiani — a veteran of the city's cocktail scene — mixes classic drinks, as well as mezcal and whisky cocktails. The wine list is also composed of artisanal pours from small producers with spectacular, handcrafted cheeses and cured meats to match.

Via Fratelli Bonnet 5
Rome, 00152

3. Sciascia Caffe

Sciascia Caffe

Those famous Pantheon-adjacent coffee shops are charming and all, but Rome's serious coffee drinkers head to this spot, opened near the Vatican in 1919, instead.

Via Fabio Massimo 80/A
Roma, 00192

4. The Jerry Thomas Project

The Jerry Thomas Project

Ring the bell, see the door open a crack, and give a password. (You can find a hint on the website.) The design recalls the days of Prohibition, and they have one of Rome's, if not Italy's, most exciting and innovative cocktail lists. Open until four in the morning for night owls. Early birds can shop the emporium across the street.

Vicolo Cellini 30
Rome, 00816

5. Freni e Frizioni

Freni e Frizioni

A fun, neighborhood bar located in a former autobody shop on the banks of the Tiber River. Out went the tools and car gear (“freni” and “frizioni” are “brakes” and “clutches”); in came vintage furniture, chandeliers, contemporary art, and a well stocked bar. In addition to cocktails, they serve a generous evening buffet.

Via del Politeama 4/6
Rome, 00153

6. Zia Rosetta

Zia Rosetta

Blink and you'll miss this itsy-bitsy juice bar and eatery, a sliver of white with a big blackboard of beverages (from creamy lattes to veggie-packed smoothies) and menu of rosettes (little sandwiches stuffed with things like bresaola, parmesan, rocket, and meatballs).

Via Urbana 54
Rome, 00184

7. La Barrique

La Barrique

A neighborly wine bar known for its champagnes and great wines recently added a full menu to its offerings. The décor is simple: wooden tables and chairs, white walls, shelves lined with bottles, a chalkboard listing wines on offer.

Via del Boschetto 41B
Rome, 00183

8. No.Au


A fun and funky bar whose name stands for "naturale, organico, alimento, umano" (natural, organic, humane, food) and is a play on the English "know-how."; There's an insider vibe – two of the owners are superstar pizzaiolo Gabriele Bonci and brewmaster Teo Musso – but the place is totally mellow, with friendly staff and painted, mismatched tables and chairs.

Piazza di Montevecchio 16
Rome, 00186

9. Salotto 42

Salotto 42

A pretty little bar overlooking a quiet piazza where they serve smoothies and fresh juices in addition to cocktails. The space is slick but welcoming, with an arched ceilings, art books lining the walls, velvet sofas, and goldfish swimming in bowls on the coffee tables.

Piazza di Pietra 42
Rome, 00186

10. Il Palazzetto

Il Palazzetto

Rome is a city of rooftop bars (the view!) and the terrace here is one of the prettiest. The small hotel just off the Spanish Steps is owned by the nearby Hotel Hassler, which also has a terrific bar, but Il Palazzetto feels more like a find. Come year-round: heating mushrooms warm the terrace during colder months.

Vicolo del Bottino 8
Rome, 00187

11. Treebar


Like so many cool bars in Rome, this one is open from breakfast until the wee small hours, from 11 a.m.-3 p.m, then 6 p.m.-1 a.m. (Closed Monday lunch.) The former kiosk now has a cool scandinavian look and draws a fun crowd, especially on Monday nights for the party they call We Like Monday, with aperitivi, tapas, and DJ sets.

Via Flaminia 226
Rome, 00196

12. Caffe Canova-Tadolini

Caffe Canova-Tadolini

A stunning place for a coffee or an aperitivo, filled with museum-quality sculptures and casts by Antonio Canova and the multi-generational family of his best pupil, Adamo Tadolini. There's a full restaurant, but it's best for drinks.

Via del Babuino 150A-B
Rome, 00187

13. Etabli


A hip and unique (for Rome, anyway) wine bar and lounge with a great mixture of old and new décor and friendly staff. Come for quiet drinks before dinner, a party scene, or a nightcap. They have live music Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday evenings. 

Vicolo delle Vacche 9
Rome, 00186

14. Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa'

Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa'

The artisanal beer scene is big in Rome, and this pub draws cute boys (and girls) who like a great draughts on tap. Yeah, it's dark, dingy, and pubby, and there's probably a soccer game on the TV, but it's totally fun when you're in that kind of mood. The name, incidentally, roughly translates as "What'd you come here for?" 


Via di Benedetta 25
Rome, 00153

15. Maxxi


The national museum of 21st-century arts and architecture is in a Zaha Hadid-designed building as striking for its structure as it is for its content. 

Via Guido Reni 4/A
Rome, 00196

16. Santa Maria in Montesanto

Santa Maria in Montesanto

Designed by three famous local architects, the baroque church also became known as the Church of Artists for its special Sunday mass with artist and musician accompaniment. You can still catch a special Sunday service at noon; otherwise, take a tour during the week. Follow it up with a visit to Santa Maria dei Miracoli across the street in Piazza del Popolo.

Via del Babuino 198
Rome, 00187

17. Cesare al Casaletto

Cesare al Casaletto

Arguably Rome's best trattoria is in Monteverde. From the fried starters (meatballs, gnocchi) to traditional Roman pastas (carbonara, amatriciana) to classic cucina povera dishes such as oxtail, it's cucina Romana at its finest. The dining room is full every night of the week, so you should make a reservation. Cesare gets a lot of buzz. Believe the hype.

Via del Casaletto 45
Rome, 00151

18. Emma


Fourth-generation baker Pierluigi Roscioli and top-notch ingredients from his family's equally well-known Salumeria Roscioli mean some of the best Roman-style thin crust pizza in town. It's pricier than the average pizzeria, but the taste more than matches the price, as does the excellent wine list.

Via del Monte della Farina 28
Rome, 00186

19. Supplizio


Take a break from the crowds at Piazza Navona at this cozy friggitoria (fried snack shop). Taste test all the supplì (fried rice balls) and don't miss the spiked zabaione inspired by one of the chef's nonnas.

Via dei Banchi Vecchi 143
Rome, 00186

20. Osteria La Gensola

The oldest trattoria in Trastevere (serving since 1482!) is a cozy, family-run restaurant that specializes in seafood. The vibe is rustic and charming: wood-beam ceilings, a few dining rooms, and walls decorated with napkins that patrons have sketched over the years.

Piazza della Gensola 15
Rome, 00153

21. Glass Hostaria

Glass Hostaria

Small, trendy, and Michelin-starred, with modern, minimalist style and a surrounding balcony overhead. Italian-born and American-trained chef Cristina Bowerman is a rising star on the Italian food scene for her fresh take on classic dishes.

Vicolo del Cinque 58
Rome, 00153

22. Fatamorgana


The Monti outpost of the great artisanal gelateria serves classic as well as inventive flavors like Kentucky, a rich chocolate with licorice and tobacco, and has a great outdoor seating area that doubles as its own homemade piazza.

Piazza Degli Zingari 5
Rome, 00184

23. La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali

La Taverna dei Fori Imperiali

The small, family-run restaurant near the Colosseum may look unassuming, but it's a local favorite for classic Roman dishes like bruschetta Amatriciana, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, and saltinbocca alla Romana.

Via della Madonna dei Monti 9
Rome, 00184

24. L’Asino d'Oro

L’Asino d'Oro

Umbrian chef Lucio Sforza is on his third location of his beloved restaurant, from the original in Orvieto to a second in Montesacro and now here in Monti. Like so many local favorites, the décor is simple and there are lots of tables outside. The pared-down but sophisticated menu includes roasts, beans, and inventive interpretations of puddings.

Via del Boschetto 73
Rome, 00184

25. Urbana 47

Urbana 47

It is a decidedly farm-to-table affair at the dinner table, where diners are offered the best of Lazio (the region of which Rome is the capital). Ingredients are carefully documented by province and served with care and Italian flair.

Via Urbana 47
Rome, 00184

26. Bar del Fico

Bar del Fico

A somewhat big and very cool restaurant that spills out onto the pretty little piazza where locals gather to play chess in the afternoons. The look is industrial bistro chic: metal chairs with peeling paint, long communal tables, and a foosball table in the corner. The menu features lots of grilled specials and hearty pastas.

Via della Pace 34/36
Rome, 00186

27. Baffetto


Via del Governo Vecchio 114 (location on map)
Rome, 00186

Piazza del Teatro di Pompeo 18
Rome, 00186

28. Ginger


A cute, airy, organic café and restaurant in the center of the tiny Via Condotti neighborhood, where produce is displayed like sculpture. It feels like a pocket of super-healthy Los Angeles in Rome. The menu includes panini, pastas, and massive salads, as well as juices, milkshakes, and smoothies. Everything is delicious.

Via Borgognona 43/44
Rome, 00187

29. Felice a Testaccio

Felice a Testaccio

Great trattoria that does all the Roman classics well. Abbacchio al forno (roast baby lamb) is the best, and they are also known for tonnarelli a cacio e pepe.

Via Mastro Giorgio 29
Rome, 00153

30. Checchino dal 1887

Checchino dal 1887

Classic Roman fare; a must if you've never been to Rome. They make arguably the best amatriciana sauce in the city. Go for the terrific old-style service and quinto quarto-style cooking (offal). Don't miss abbacchio alla cacciatora (baby lamb stew) and apple cake house-made by the chef/owner's sister.

Via Monte Testaccio 30
Rome, 00153

31. In Fucina

In Fucina

A great and inventive pizza concept that is definitely worth the trip. Round, foccaccia-style pizza is blind-baked without sauce or toppings (so the pizza is crispy all around), then topped with unusual ingredients like monkfish and urchin. Very fresh and very tasty.

Via Giuseppe Lunati 25
Rome, 00149

32. Pizzeria ai Marmi

Pizzeria ai Marmi

Every native Roman calls this place L'Obitorio (the morgue) for the large marble table where they make the pizza, which looks like a sarcophagus. (The burning inferno in the background only adds to the dramatic look.) Indeed, the thin-crust pizza is to die for.

Viale di Trastevere 53
Rome, 00153

33. Pizzarium


Romans are crazy about pizza, and Pizzarium's Gabriele Bonci may as well be the godfather of the city's best pizza makers. He is known for using unusual flours (like kamut) and concocting inventive toppings (like his famous "LSD" pie with licorice, sausage, and dates). It's a trek, but it's on your way to the entrance of the Vatican.

Via della Meloria 43
Rome, 00136

34. Piperno


A very elegant old restaurant and staple of the Jewish quarter. You must order the artichokes alla romana and alla giudea. The spaghetti vongole is also terrific.

Via Monte de' Cenci 9
Rome, 00186

35. Da Fortunato

Da Fortunato

A classic, elegant Roman restaurant that serves great equally classic pastas and meat courses. It's a favorite of politicians who work around the corner (hence the bodyguards waiting outside) and local patricians.

Via del Pantheon 55
Rome, 00186

36. Roscioli


In the front, it's a market with the best food products from around Italy. In the back, it's an upscale wine bar/restaurant that serves great pasta and exceptional salumi. Make reservations; it's popular with locals and tourists.


Via dei Giubbonari 21-22
Rome, 00186

37. Gelateria del Teatro

Gelateria del Teatro

Nestled in an alley off a charming, quiet street right in the historic center. The shop specializes in imaginative flavors (raspberry-sage, honey-lemon-rosemary). Quite the palate cleanser.

Via di San Simone 70
Rome, 00186

38. Al Moro

Fall in love with Al Moro for every facet of its menu: seasonal dishes like fried artichokes, puntarelle, and staples like spaghetti al Moro (a piccante reinterpretation of carbonara) and grilled meat and fish. The smallish dining rooms, all three, are like home, with chic flatware and walls covered with framed newspaper clippings and photos.


Vicolo delle Bollette 13
Rome , 00187

39. La Scelta di Goethe

La Scelta di Goethe

The three apartments in this restored historic building are filled with rich tapestries and Florentine artwork, which merge seamlessly, of course, with the latest technology (like iPads in every guest room). Book the the Trinita dei Monti suite for sweeping terraces, a well-stocked library, and a rooftop soaking pool.


Via del Corso 107
Rome, 00187

40. G-Rough


The fixtures, the chandeliers, the textiles, the paintings, the little messages painted on the walls — there's something interesting everywhere you look, and the eclectic design pieces, artwork, and textiles converge beautifully and harmoniously. The gorgeous, 10-suite hotel is located just a block from Piazza Navona, and you can feel how close you are to the city's heartbeat.


Piazza di Pasquino 69
Rome, 00186

41. The Corner Townhouse

The Corner Townhouse

A nouveau townhouse with a notable chef in the bistro, a mosaic on the rooftop terrace, a cozy library, and a speakeasy makes for a great home base (and place to come home to) while in Rome. 

Viale Aventino 121
Rome, 00153

42. CasaCau


Pretend you're a (very fortunate) Roman in one of these six hip, little apartments in a refurbished 17th-century building by the Trevi Fountain. The owner supplies seasonal recipes for your kitchen — a great excuse to shop the many farmer's markets, butcher shops, and larders around town.

Via in Arcione 94
Rome, 00187

43. Buonanotte Garibaldi

Buonanotte Garibaldi

A homey, three-room bed and breakfast in a converted family home in Trastevere. Owner Luisa Longo is a textile designer whose wares are displayed in a birdcage in reception. The living room, with its grand piano, leather sofas, and rows of books, welcomes lingering, as does the courtyard garden.

Via Giuseppe Garibaldi 83
Rome, 00187

44. Hotel San Anselmo

Hotel San Anselmo

A sweet and cozy hideaway in a converted 19th century townhouse on the residential Aventine Hill. The décor in the 34-room hotel is a very Roman mix of modern and antiques, and there's a lovely garden in the back for breakfast or aperitivo.

Piazza San Anselmo 2
Rome, 00153

45. Hotel Palazzo Manfredi

Hotel Palazzo Manfredi

Ever wondered what it would be like to see the Colosseum from your window? Take up residence for a night at this little luxury hotel and bask in the light of the Roman Forum as you drink your last espresso of the night. Rooms are tastefully modern with pearly white bathrooms and fluffy robes.

Via Labicana 125
Rome, 00184

46. Relais Teatro Argentina

Relais Teatro Argentina

A lovely, six-room boutique hotel in a centrally located palazzo near Largo Argentino and Campo de’ Fiori. The look is a classic Italian family home: Venetian glass chandeliers, upholstered chairs, rich draperies, modern bathrooms. There's nothing ostentatious and it's all very tasteful. The lovely and helpful people in charge are Carlotta Fè d'Ostiani and her uncle Paolo. Her parents run Arco dei Tolomei Guest House in Trastevere.

Via del Sudario 35
Rome, 00186

47. Hotel Indigo Rome - St. George

Hotel Indigo Rome - St. George

A five-star hotel that mixes great modern style with excellent functionality. In other words, if you’re here on business, it won’t feel like it. There’s a great spa and a beautiful rooftop terrace bar with fantastic 360-degree views of Rome's 400+ domes.

Via Giulia 62
Rome, 00186

48. Crossing Condotti

Crossing Condotti

It’s not a hotel so much as an intimate townhouse, with five bedrooms and one suite, one flight up from chic Via Condotti. There’s a small living room and an honor kitchen for snacks and hot and cold beverages. The decor mixes modern and classic: warm grey walls, antique sconces, heavy wooden furniture. The staff is attentive but discreet: The concierge goes off duty around 6 p.m.

Via Mario de' Fiori 28
Rome, 00187

49. J.K. Place Roma

J.K. Place Roma

One of the best new hotels in town, it’s the third outpost of the mini J.K. Place empire. And like the truly heavenly sister properties in Florence and Capri, this one is impossibly chic yet totally welcoming, with a living room-style lobby filled with piles of art books and beautiful photography and sumptuous bedrooms upstairs.

Via di Monte d’Oro 30
Rome, 00186

50. The Inn at the Roman Forum

The Inn at the Roman Forum

Ancient meets modern at the 14-room boutique hotel overlooking the Roman Forum that has 2,000-year-old crypt on-site. (On-site! It's the only hotel in Rome that can make this claim.) The décor is contemporary, sumptuous and almost a little overdone, with curtains draped around four-poster beds, embossed wallpaper, and dramatic chandeliers. Breakfast and cocktails are served on the rooftop terrace, which has great views.

Via degli Ibernesi 30
Rome, 00185

51. Portrait Roma

Portrait Roma

The Ferragamo family has several hotels under their Lungarno Collection brand, many in their native Florence, but this was their first in Rome, an intimate and gorgeous, 14-room hotel that feels like a private home. Located on chic Via Condotti, it’s pricey, but the view from the rooftop bar is priceless.

Via Bocca di Leone 23
Rome, 00187

52. Hotel Locarno

Hotel Locarno

A charming and picturesque hotel off Piazza del Popolo, decorated with such beautiful Art Deco, Art Nouveau, and Belle Epoque pieces that it feels like you’ve stepped back in time. There are two buildings; book a room in the newer one.

Via della Penna 22
Rome, 00186

53. Moriondo e Gariglio

Moriondo e Gariglio

Founded by a Piedmontese family in the 19th century, Moriondo e Gariglio is Rome's most revered chocolate shop. Their cacao-based confections are sold by weight from the counter at the back of the store and carefully packaged. While the dark chocolate-coated nuts and brittle travel well, the most durable items are jars of marron glacés, plump candied chestnuts in syrup.

Via del Pie' di Marmo 21/22
Rome, 00186

54. Pro Loco Dol

Pro Loco Dol

Vincenzo Mancino's haven only carries products from Lazio, the region of which Rome is capital. Favorites at Pro Loco Dol include heirloom legumes, prosciutto di Bassiano, and conciato di San Vittore, a raw-milk cheese aged in crust made from wild herbs and spices.

Via Domenico Panaroli 35
Rome, 00172

55. De Clercq & De Clercq

De Clercq & De Clercq

The beautiful knitted cashmere sweaters, pullovers, and scarves made by two Italian sisters have been a favorite in the fashion world for decades, yet Diane and Evelyne are still keeping it in the family at their tiny atelier on Rome's Via dei Prefetti. Stop by the store if only to marvel at the boho decor.

Via dei Prefetti 10
Rome, 00186

56. Di San Giacomo

Di San Giacomo

A little pocket of the Amalfi coast in Rome, where made-to-measure women's sandals are crafted on the premises. They have countless styles and colors of leather straps, and add a special twist: Jewelry that matches the shoes. Sounds crazy, but it totally works.

Via di Tor Millina 10/11
Rome, 00186

57. Libreria La Gru

There's something romantic about old bookstores: the stacks, the smell, the history, the opportunity to experience theater, history, art, and humor with the flip of the page. On the red-painted shelves you'll find rare, illustrated, and forgotten classics in English and Italian.

Via del Boschetto 20
Rome, 00184

58. Mercatino del Borghetto Flaminio

Mercatino del Borghetto Flaminio

The city's best flea market is as calm as its bourgeois neighborhood. More than 200 vendors sell everything from barely-worn designer clothing and exquisite jewelry to teapots and vintage cameras. 

Piazza della Marina 32
Rome, 00196

59. Laura Tonatto Perfumes

Laura Tonatto Perfumes

A small and innovative interactive olfactory playground, where the Turin-based perfumers' scents are paired with music and movies (La Dolce Vita, Cleopatra), for a fantastic, full-on sensory overload. Her full range of scents are also for sale.

Piazza di Pietra 42
Rome, 00186

60. Wonderfool

A beautiful concept shop whose motto is “wellness and style.” There’s a Neapolitan-style barbershop, a spa for men and women, and a boutique that stocks select beauty and fashion products from some of the world’s most interesting brands. Stop in for a coffee and a browse. 

Via dei Banchi Nuovi 39
Rome, 00186

61. Nicotra di San Giacomo

Nicotra di San Giacomo

Beautiful, almost decadent jewelry made from weaving silver and gold with jewel-colored silk thread. The resulting bracelets, necklaces, and rings are fluid and very striking. 

Via del Governo Vecchio 128
Rome, 00186

62. LOL


Hanging from the racks of the gorgeous, light-filled boutique are collections of small-batch knitwear pieces, Italian silk short-and-shirt sets, incredible printed dresses, and elegant trousers and coats.

Via Urbana 89-92
Rome, 00184

63. Aromaticus


It’s almost like a little bit of Portland has seeped into the Monti neighborhood. Follow the scent of aromatic herbs to the small gardening shop filled with kitchen plants, urban gardening accoutrements, and a small kitchen counter from which they serve aromatic salads and slow food carpaccios. 

Via Urbana 134
Rome, 00184

64. Saddlers Union

Saddlers Union

A small workshop on ritzy but discreet Via Margutta that sells customizable leather bags and accessories for men and women. The legendary heritage brand that was a favorite of the jetset in the 1960s has been recently revived and now produces classic and contemporary designs.

Via Margutta 11
Rome, 00187

65. 'Gusto


Culinary dreams come to life in this crammed shop that’s packed with every accouterment a home cook could want: rolling pins and cocottes, cookbooks and wooden spoons. The library/emporium is part of the larger ‘Gusto complex which includes a cheese shop, pizzeria, osteria, and café – to inspire your creations.

Piazza Augusto imperatore 7
Rome, 00186

66. Kokoro


Gorgeous vintage fabrics redone as beautiful, fashion-forward dresses. The designer draws inspiration from New York, Berlin, and Paris, bringing a globally-chic look to the Monti neighborhood.

Via del Boschetto 75
Rome, 00184

67. Volpetti


An awesome gastronomia full of local and imported Italian artisan products. They will vacuum-seal meats for a nominal fee if you want to take them out of the country. The sibling cafeteria Volpetti Piu around the corner serves good prepared foods, the best of which is pizza con patate (potatoes).

Via Marmorata 47
Rome, 00153